Magical Madeira

After travelling 700 miles from Cádiz to Funchal, Madeira, we arrived as the sun was peeking above the sea. Today’s weather looked ominous as we prepared to dock, but the sea had truly calmed.

Janet and I have never visited this island so we were really excited to explore and discover this rock in the ocean. Funchal, to our surprise, is a densely populated city clinging to the side of hills overlooking the sea.

Standing on the balcony as we docked, we quickly realized that we would be experiencing a wicked ride on our bus excursion today.

Hairpin turns, steep inclines, and long drop offs would definitely be on the agenda for our excursion. Tom had already decided before exiting the ship to be polite and offer Janet the window seat. We chose for the day’s adventure “Scenic Villages and Costal Views”. It was our hope to escape the large city of Funchal and enjoy the countryside. 

I am not sure if we were getting used to the disembarkation process or the NCL crew was getting better at getting us off the ship, but it seemed less painful than any day before. We headed to our bus where our driver greeted us with a smile and handed us wipes to clean our hands. With all passengers onboard, a confirming head count, and tickets collected, we began the exploration of this beautiful island located 350 miles off the coast of Morocco.

Camara de Lobos would be our first stop. It is a small fishing village nestled in a cove and a favorite place for artists to capture its beauty. The multi-color boats, sharp rock formations, and white houses with the red roofs all lend themselves to be captured on some kind of media. Whether it be canvas, film, or digital, there is no doubt that the beauty of this seaside village has been documented by many. Not sure it has ever been accurately captured, here is our attempt to highlight the beauty.

Tom saw someone he thought he recognized sitting in front of a small hotel painting the harbor. He chatted with the man because he will talk to anybody before he realized the man was stone deaf. Seriously, the town of Camara de Lobos was one of Sir Winston Churchill's favorite places to unwind and do something he loved - to paint.

Over the years in our travels to Europe, especially Italy and Spain, we have noticed something about Sundays. The beautiful churches fill up with women and children, while the men head to the town square to hang out with friends. Madeira is no different. The early morning Mass in the beautiful church on the hill had just ended.  Ladies were leading the children home, while down the hill in the harbor, the men crowded around tables playing cards and smoking.

The next stop of the day would offer some amazing views of the countryside. First, we must climb to get there. It appeared almost every piece of useable land, and a lot of the land that was un-useable, was supporting some type of agriculture function. The views from the bus were spectacular, and Tom was very pleased he was a gentleman and allowed Janet to enjoy the window views. We wound around vineyards, banana orchids, flowers of every color, and rock walls protecting home gardens as we continued to climb. The island’s beauty cannot be captured by a camera lens, or portable telephone with a camera.

When we finally reached a flat section of road, the bus stopped and then started backing up cutting his wheels like we going over the cliff. This was very UNGOOD!  We quickly realized that we had reached our next stop and were about to try a potion that Madeiran fisherman like to drink to fortify the soul. It is a concoction made from local rum (rhum) with honey, lemon and other citrus flavors known as Poncha. A free sample table was set up as a gentleman poured fast furious to our group. Folks were downing them as quick as he could fill the glasses. I think most drank because it was free, some maybe because they liked it, and in Tom’s case it was because the time had come to get back on the bus and climb higher on the narrow roads.

It was at this roadside pitstop where one of the funniest things we have ever experienced occurred. An older woman than us (+70) took a sip of the Poncha licked her lips, and looking straight at Janet said, “I have never had a sip of alcohol in my life” and after a short pause “I wonder why I waited so long”. She requested us to take a picture of her and the empty glass of Poncha so she could share with her children. She reciprocated by taking a shot of us. Standing on that overlook 1000 feet above the sea, I could not help to wonder what inspired her to just give it go and down this citrus potion. Getting back on the bus, we noticed she was carrying a bag with a small bottle of Poncha. The driver appropriately put the bus in forward and we began to climb once again.

Reaching the top of our journey, we arrived at Cabo Girao. This sea cliff happens to be the highest in Europe and we were told that it was the second highest in the world. Providing infinite views of the sea from 1900 feet, we walked to the edge. Guess what! They have one of those glass platforms!  If one is foolish enough, they can challenge their fear of heights.

For those that have followed our blogs in the past, you may remember that Tom made it across the one-mile-high bridge at Grandfather Mountain earlier in the year. Yes, there were a few small children he stepped on or pushed aside as they wanted to jump and play games on the bridge, but he made it. The sheerness of this cliff made it a whole new challenge. He was not as confident about standing on a piece of glass with 60 people he did not know. Sticking his camera over the wall revealed the view below.

Janet, on the other hand, marched out on the viewing platform like she was going to take a walk on the beach… well I guess she was, but the beach was 1900 feet below. After some serious soul searching and a break when very few people were on the platform, Tom did it! Ripping off his mask to insure he had enough oxygen, he smiled and then told Janet, “Take the damn picture… please” and then got off quickly. Tom did not make it to viewing rail, but was extremely pleased with himself.

If you look at the picture carefully, notice Tom kept one foot on the support beam. If he heard a crack, he wanted to make sure something was solid under him, like he would be of sound mind to actually straddle the beam and crawl back to terra firma. Janet comfortably moved all around the platform. In fact, she may have been trying to capture a picture of the New York Skyline as she leaned over the edge. The view truly was endless and Janet could have stood there for another hour, but Tom was ready to descend down to sea level.

Our last stop of the day was another seaside town. The town of Ribeira Brava is much larger than the fishing village of Camara de Lobos. The bus parked at the mouth of the river that runs through the middle of the town and empties into the ocean.

Ribeira Brava translates as “Wild River”. Today the waterway was peaceful, and being Sunday so was the town. The streets were quiet with a few shops open. A nativity scene with life size figures was being setup in the park at the end of the river. Santa was spotted checking in on the progress as Mary and Joseph stood in waiting for the big day less than a month away.

We walked around poking our heads in different shops. Of course, it did not take long for Tom to gravitate towards the wine section of the market.

We slowly strolled back towards the rendezvous point for the bus. The streets were narrow and fairly quiet. Signs of Christmas were everywhere.

As we passed the church, we noticed that Mass was ongoing. Standing in the back quietly, we listened and watched the priest while mentally translating the words from Portuguese to English. Not knowing a word of Portuguese did not encumber us in this translation. The Mass is a Mass no matter the language it is celebrated in.

Boarding the bus and heading out of town, this scene of two men fishing caught both of our eyes. Snapping almost identical pictures, we just could not resist adding a caption to the photograph for this amazing Sunday in Madeira.

The bus ride back to Funchal flew by as the guide told us more about the traditions, history, and foods of these islands. More than once she talked of the delicacy of the fish that is almost only found in the deep waters surrounding Madeira. This black fish is named the scabbard fish and lives in depths greater than 400 feet. Normally, these fish are caught between 800 and 1000 feet. The way she described the scabbard was that if you saw the fish you would not want to eat it, but the meat of the fish is very white and sweet. We now had two things to do – 1) Find one for lunch, 2) Google to see what they look like.

The driver of our excursion was nice enough to let us off in downtown Funchal instead of returning to the ship. The city was much more alive than the seaside villages, but was still quiet with very few shops open. We stopped in a few and found to people extremely friendly, and not pushy. There were many souvenirs of the island available, but the ones we really liked were made of cork. In fact, a few of those items made it back to the ship for Christmas presents. It was pushing two o’clock and our stomachs were beginning to growl. We were in search of a restaurant when by chance, we bumped into the gang, who had just sat down for lunch at an outdoor restaurant. We joined in and were extremely pleased to see on the daily menu board, Scabbard Fish Filet Sandwich “bolo do caco”.  We were glad to be able to follow the tour guide’s instructions “try it before you see what it looks like”. The fish came and as she had advertised the meat was flakey white and extremely sweet. Accompanied by a lovely rosé, we had a wonderful lunch. There was even music from a street player that made the moment even more special. 

However, the highlight of the lunch was when Andy found a dark beer on the menu. For some reason unbeknownst to anyone we asked, there was no dark beer on the ship. Not even in the Irish Pub onboard. I am not sure it was the best dark beer he ever had, but it hit the spot that day. Sally and Richard enjoyed some Madeira, which is the wine that the island is known for. Madeira, the wine, played a major role in the history of the United States. It was the libation of choice of our founding fathers when they took part in honorable treason and drafted the Declaration of Independence. BTW – for history buffs, the book “Honorable Treason” is a very interesting read. Of course, with a glass of Madeira close by.

We continued to wander the streets and enjoy the city before heading back to the ship. Walking along the sea wall, we could see the Epic and it appeared only a short distance away, if you could walk on water.

We would have to walk parallel with the ship for quite a distance before turning back to the ship at the entrance to dock. Looking back on where we started from provided us a great view of the city.

One of the worst things about a cruise is that there never seems to be enough time on land to truly enjoy a place. On the other hand, it is a great way to discover new places and put them on a list to return. Madeira is one of those places we would like to return and explore.

As we got closer to the Epic, we could hear all sorts of music and something happening at the entrance of the ship. Tom’s knee was hurting and all he wanted to do is get on the ship, but we had to smile to see the crew dancing and singing to greet us as we had just finished the Boston Marathon. They were handing out wet wash clothes and water, both of which were gladly accepted.

Back on board we began getting ready for the night’s activities when the ship began to move. We both went out on the balcony to say good bye to Madeira an island that had provided us with a wonderful day. Watching the island go by we suddenly realized that it would be the last land we would see for 5 days. Our transatlantic adventure was truly going to begin.

Oh yeah, the scabbard fish! The guide was right! The fish is extremely ugly and it is mean looking! Not sure we would have eaten it if we saw it first.

A Day at Sea

Leaving Cádiz at nightfall, we headed out into the Atlantic Ocean. Returning to our room for the evening, we were having a little trouble walking. Neither of us were sure if it was the last drink or the sea causing us to walk abnormally? Having no problem locating the room, we decided it was the sea that was making the walk difficult. If one looks carefully in the picture below, they will see little fish swimming in the carpet. The fish are helpers because they always swim to the bow (pointy end of the ship), and many times were lifesavers from getting lost.

Reaching the room, the sound of the sea and the rain in accompaniment with clanging of lines on the lifeboats provided our symphony to lull us asleep. Tonight would be the first night we slept with our door to the balcony closed. We had been leaving it cracked at night so the sound of the sea and the cool breeze could be enjoyed. Not tonight! There was not enough movement to cause a queasy tummy, but enough to know we were on a boat. Albeit a very big boat, but a boat which will always be at the will of the sea.

We slept the latest we had slept to this point on our journey – 0730! Our deck chairs and table had been relocated in the night and the balcony was sopping wet. I guess we slept through a pretty good storm.

Most of the sea motion from the night before was gone, but there was still some leftover sway to let you know where you were. We venture out for leisurely breakfast to start our day. It was nice to enjoy eating and visiting with other guest versus rushing to our excursion rendezvous point. Today would be a chill day for both of us.

Janet decided to have a gym morning, while I took the spa route. The spa pass would pay for itself on these at sea days, just a great place to unwind. Janet enjoyed her gym time as well. Where else can one get on a machine with such a view and peddle, row, or run 14 stories above the sea. The views are memorizing!

I never took my camera out in the spa area feeling it would be an invasion of privacy, but here is a short video that gives a nice tour of the facility. Video Link: ( NCL EPIC's Mandara Spa )  My routine was usually 15 to 30 minutes in the large hot tub, followed by an herbal steam bath. After 10 or 15 minutes of enjoying some serious eucalyptus sweating, a cold refreshing shower always left me feeling so clean and relaxed. From there I would get wrapped up in a big heavy robe and lay down on the heated stone body conforming lounge chairs. It is here one can easily take a short doze and reach total relaxation, which I did several times.

However, my favorite thing was to go out on the aft balcony and stare out into the sea. Today this vantage point was exceptionally cool with views of the storm we left behind. Janet came to check on me and I had just finished listening to David Gilmour, Live at Royal Albert Hall. I could have stayed on the spa's balcony all day listening to the music and the taking in the view.

By the time I left the spa, the storm was well behind us. The sun had come out and the ship along with  the colors of the sea had become vibrant. A few folks had made out on the deck, but by late afternoon it would be a happening place with bands and people dancing. For me, I like the quiet.

Continuing to walk the ship, I could not help but to stare out to sea. There is absolutely nothing manmade to focus on outside the railings, and yet the nothingness I found overwhelming. Then a small hint of a rainbow in the distance could be seen.

Once back in the room, I did check on the ship’s channel for our location, and I was a little shaken when the monitor reported that the ocean below was almost 14,000 feet deep. Not sure why I felt that way, but it was a little unnerving. Ever since I was in 8th grade, I have been a follower of everything Titanic. From a Night to Remember, the discovery by Dr. Ballard, and the blockbuster movie. The Titanic was one of the reasons I wanted to do this transatlantic voyage. The depth of the water brought back all those memories of the great ship in a burst mode. I still cannot imagine or fathom those who were and are willing to challenge the sea in much smaller vessels. Here’s to the brave souls who made the voyage and to those who did not! I know a little dramatic for a huge cruise ship, but nonetheless when you are staring out at sea all day your mind goes everywhere. Thank you, David Gilmour. 😉

It was while we were in the room when the rainbow picture used in the blog’s banner appeared. Standing on our balcony, we just watched it form in front of us. Just like it was made for our enjoyment and ours alone. I am sure there are many that saw it, but for us it was our moment.

It still amazes me the difference in the sky under the rainbow compared to the color of the sky on the outside of the rainbow. Definitely a sight we will not forget. I took a lot of pictures of this rainbow and the two shades of blue are in all of them.

We headed out to hook up with our friends to play cards and tell stories of our adventures aboard the Epic on the first day at sea. Playing cards at the very front on the 15th deck of the ship offered us a view of what lay ahead. We are headed to Funchal, Madeira and when the sunrises tomorrow we will be docking on this Portuguese island.

Cádiz is Calling

We awoke very early this morning, well before sunrise. The Epic had not reached our port for the day, Cádiz. I am sure our early rise this morning was partially tied to the amount of food and drinks consumed the day before. Our excursion in Cádiz would take us to another white village and then a tour and a Sherry tasting in Jerez de la Frontera. (Usually shortened to Jerez). However, since it was so early, Tom went to explore the ship and Janet to the gym for a quick work out before breakfast.

Since we have been on the ship there was one thing we had not located. It was the elusive elevator to 18th deck. There is only one public elevator on the ship which goes to the top deck. We had received directions from a couple that was staying in a Haven’s suite where the lift was located, but when Sally and Rich checked it out, it was a no-go. One had to have a Haven coded key for the elevator to work. Tom began his search for the elevator at the Haven elevator location. It only took a few minutes to locate the public elevator. It too is located on the 15th deck on the starboard side right off the Garden Café. The glass elevator has only two buttons – 15 and 18. Pushing 18, the elevator climbed the 3 decks quickly, and when the door opened the view was unforgettable. The Epic had just started the docking evolution in Cádiz. The cathedral, surrounded by the white city as a background, and the ship lit up like a pinball machine - it was a KODAK moment… with my phone. Being a camera proponent, I rarely use the camera feature in my phone.

Following another wonderful breakfast, we headed to the Epic Theater to begin the disembarkation process. This morning getting off the ship went very smoothly and quickly. We were excited to begin our day! As soon as we cleared the ship a surprise awaited us. There was a hint of fog about. This moisture is extremely important in the making of Sherry, but more on that later. We boarded the bus, crossed the bridge leaving Cádiz behind, and the fog grew thicker.

Our tour guide was a native of the Czech Republic, but had travelled extensively and has lived in Spain for quite some time. She was very reassuring that the fog would clear as we made our way to the white village of Arcos de la Frontera. Arcos, as it is usually called, was about a fifty-minute ride from the ship.

Arriving in Acros we had climbed above the fog. It was a beautiful day and the quaint white village was still a sleepy place. The streets were quiet with just a few people walking and even fewer cars. The cobblestone streets transported you back in time immediately and were still a bit damp and slippery from the morning fog.

The tour guide got us pointed in the right direction to head up to the town square. Then it was “all stop” as one person in the tour group made the statement, “I cannot walk up a hill” followed by a questioned directed to our tour guide, “How are you going to get me to the top?” She calmly replied, “I am not.”

At this point I feel obligated to take an off ramp! The excursion was clearly marked moderate to intense activity, and also had this caveat clearly printed on the excursion information: Note: Tour involves approximately 1/3-mile of walking on hilly terrain with cobblestones. If you happen to do a cruise in the future, please make sure you read the details on the excursion before you sign up.

Now, with the gentleman settled in a nearby café, the group began the hike to the top. There were lots of complaints, moaning and frequent breaks by the group along the way. We were just dumbfounded by the amount of grumbles, but continued on. Reaching the top, we found vibrant blue sky and no sign of the fog. The Basilica Menor de Santa Maria dominated the square. Construction on this church began in the 15th century, and was completed in the 16th century. However, the edifice was much older because it had not always been a Christian place of worship. The Basilica was originally a Mosque built in the 8th century and 700 years later a Catholic King demolished portions, remodeled some, and built the existing church on top of the mosque.

On the opposite side of the square is what we had come to see - the view! Climbing the steps to a viewing platform we wanted to see the Guadalete River and the surrounding countryside beauty. From our vantage point, at a height of over 1000 feet, the view was supposed to be endless and gorgeous. However, as we reached the wall the view was anything but…

There was nothing but fog. One could not see 100 feet in any direction. Oh well, at least the walk back to the bus would be downhill for the moaners and groaners who now started complaining about their knees. The Guadalete River is one of the rivers that has major impact on the production of Sherry. It also has significant historical importance to Andalucía. The river formed a natural border between the Moorish and Christian Kingdoms and for the most part was no man’s land for both. Many battles were fought along it’s banks.

Making it to the bottom of the hill, we milled around a souvenir shop waiting for the others to make it down. There were plenty of trinkets and sample food items to buy, but the one thing that caught our eye was a large picture on the wall. It visually put into perspective what we may have seen if there was no fog.

Huffing and puffing, the moaners boarded the bus and we were off to the next stop in Jerez de la Fonterra. The tour guide announced that it would be a short thirty-minute ride to Jerez. Janet grabbed her book and I settled in for a quick nap to make up for lost sleep. I awoke forty-minutes later and Janet immediately said, I think we are going the wrong direction. Then, I saw a sign saying we were heading to Rhonda - Uh Oh. The driver and guide were in an intense conversation where words were flying faster than we could understand. After consulting google maps, the guide announced that the driver had taken a short cut only to find that the road was closed, and now it would be another thirty minutes to Jerez. She smiled, but was not a happy camper.

Arriving in the city of Jerez, we re-entered into the morning fog. The fog, the winds, the heat, the rivers, and the soil in this area make it a unique terroir for producing Sherry. If one looks on a bottle of Sherry, you will see that it is labeled - Jerez-Xeres-Sherry. Jerez is Spanish, Xeres is French, and you guessed it… Sherry is English. In the 1930s when this wine region was officially established, the wine officials wanted to make sure everyone knew what was in the bottle. Today, the official label of the wine region clearly has all three languages on each bottle.

We were headed to Bodegas Gonzalez Byass. The bodega has been in operation since 1835, and today the 5th generation of the González family is still in control. In the mid-1800s the González family partnered with a British merchant named Robert Byass. Their relationship lasted until the new century when the González family took back full control of operations. This bodega is one of the biggest in the industry with tentacles that reach far passed Jerez. They are best known for Tito Pepe Sherry which is the number one selling Sherry in the world. Bodegas Gonzalez Byass also boasts of the largest working wind vane according to the Guinness Book of World Records.

Arriving late, we ended up with an abbreviated tour. There were so many things we wanted to see and ask about the production of Sherry. Last year when Tom completed his Spanish Wines Scholar, he thought Sherry would be his downfall. The process is so complicated with so many different variants of the final product. Albeit, it is Fino Sherry and the magic that occurs during biological aging under a veil yeast known as “flor” that has had Sherry in demand for centuries. For this process to occur everything must come together at once. Cool evening breezes, the moisture of the fog in the morning, the hot sun during the day, and a grape named Palomino creates a low alcohol and low acid wine which oxidizes easily. The wine goes through an aging process in stacked barrels that make up a criaderas-solera, where portions of the wine in one barrel is transferred to another barrel of a different vintage periodically. This high-level overview of the process just scratches the surface of the secrets of Sherry.

Bodegas Gonzalez Byass is a massive facility with the streets covered by non-producing grape vines providing the shade in the summer.

There is warehouse after warehouse storing the 600-liter botas (special Sherry Barrels) that are painted black to easily find a leaking barrel. The barrels also sit in a bed of sand to retain the moisture needed to create the humidity required for aging. These warehouses are known as “Sherry Cathedrals” and are specially constructed to keep the wine cool on the hot summer days. The cathedrals are large pavilions and normally have a sand floor. The wind blows through the structure easily keeping them cool, but still humid enough to create the flor growing in the barrel.

Unfortunately, the tasting was very rushed with no real educational component. We have never really been Sherry drinkers, but as time goes by it is slowly growing on us. A chilled glass of a dry fino with tapas is a great pairing, and it is pretty hard to beat a PX for dessert. This unique Andalucían libation, which has been created biologically or has undergone oxidization, offers such a wide variety of flavor and taste we are sure there is one that almost anyone would enjoy.

Arriving back in Cádiz with free time to spare, we headed to the old town to explore and grab a bite to eat. Finding a small square with a few restaurants we grabbed a table outside. Tom’s eyes show excitement when he saw Jamon Ibérico Bellota on the menu.

When most people see the Bellota ham in today’s diet conscious world, they freak out – look at the fat! One would be surprised to find out that it is good for you and recommended because it promotes high levels of good cholesterol. It is all about the pigs and the acorns!  (Jamon Iberico Bellota Info) We rounded off the snack with spinach croquettes accompanied by a soft local sheep cheese drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled in sea salt. We went with a cold beer to rehydrate. Some kinda of good!

Walking the streets of Cádiz after lunch was so enjoyable. So many small alleys, nice shops, and squares to explore. The sun had fully burned all the fog away and the colors had become vibrant in the sun’s rays.

There is one thing a traveler can count on in Spain no matter where they are in the country. In the center of town, there will be a large church. Cádiz is no different, and when we wandered into the major square of the city, the church stood before us. People were busy setting up kiosks for the Christmas market which would open the next week.

We bought our tickets to tour the church for a few euros, and it also allowed us to climb to the top of the bell tower. There were no steps to the top. Instead, it was one long ramp that wound around and around seventy-six times before reaching the pinnacle. The deep blue sky with just a few clouds as background provided awesome views from the top.

Another couple joined us in the tower and we each took pictures of ourselves with the city in the background.

It was then that Janet noticed the ominous sign saying, “The Bells Ring Every Fifteen Minutes”. Checking her watch, she discovered that we had seconds to flee down the ladder and back to the circular ramp. The sound created by the bells was so powerful! We were so glad that we did not experience them ringing in the tower. Wow, were they loud! Reaching the square, we looked up one last time knowing we will make that climb another day and return to Cádiz again. We slowly walked back to the boat through this historic city that jutes out to the sea.

Tomorrow we will experience our first full day at sea with no ports. Honestly, the last few days of back-to-back excursions have been a blur. It is our hope that a day sea will be relaxing and afford us the time to take more advantage of what the Epic has to offer.