Saturday, December 11, 2021

Our Transatlantic Adventure



Follow along as we cross the Atlantic Ocean on a bucket list adventure!

The rainbow above just appeared in front of our cabin one day during the crossing.  It was truly magic!
The text has been added, but the photo has not been edited or photoshop.

Link:  Time to Go!  - Thursday & Friday

Link Day 1:  Embarkation  -  Saturday

Link Day 2:  Got Lemons?  -  Sunday

Link Day 3:  This must be Cannes  -  Monday

Link Day 4:  Blustery Barcelona  -  Tuesday

Link Day 5:  A Day on the Altiplano - Wednesday

Link Day 6:  Malaga with Momma - Thursday

Link Day 7:  Cadiz is Calling - Friday

Link Day 8:  A Day at Sea - Saturday

Link Day 9:  Magical Madeira - Sunday

Link Days 10 - 14:  5 Days at Sea - Monday to Friday

Link Day 15 - 16:  Land-Ho! - Saturday & Sunday

the end...




Monday, December 6, 2021

Land Ho!

Saturday Morning

We arose with the sun. The sea had become calm overnight. As we cracked opened our sliding door a strange noise could be heard. It was a bird on our railing. Sliding the door open, the city skyline could be seen in the distance – Land Ho! It was still a long distance away, but it was on the horizon and there were other ships too! The bird, instead of flying away, zoomed into our room as we made our way out on to the balcony. The two of us running around the room trying to chase the bird out must have been a sight to behold, but we were successful.

Upstairs to the Garden Café we went to enjoy another breakfast and to watch the ship creep closer to the Big Apple. Tom, eating quickly, headed to deck 18 to watch the arrival. The mysterious deck that took Tom so long to find on our cruise was already packed with onlookers. Nevertheless, the views offered from the upper deck will not be forgotten. Cameras and phones were everywhere snapping pictures.







Janet joined me as the crowds grew on the upper deck to watch the arrival. Looking back at Deck 15, the crowd was also growing quickly. We tried to spot our gang, but had no luck among the sea of people.




We left the bow and found a less crowded space midship on the starboard side about the same time the reason we had all gathered on this chilly morning came into view. Lady Liberty in all of her glory stood tall. One could not help but feel a tingle in their spine remembering all of the immigrants from decades ago who had wept in seeing her. America – We are here!




Sally and Rich were on deck 15 and had a very special experience that made the arrival that much more memorable.




Many of the ship’s crew were released from their duties and joined the passengers on the deck. The excitement in their eyes told the story of the past while they gazed at the copper figurine who has welcomed so many.




We continued our passage down the Hudson towards Pier 88 where we would dock for the night. The city I have always found to be visually overwhelming. However, viewing the skyline from the water only emphasizes the grandeur of the city.




Initially, we were told that we would have to sit on the ship for 24 hours before we could disembark. The reason given was that the USCG and Customs and Border patrol said the entry process would take longer. A port call had even been canceled to meet this requirement. However, late last night it was announced that we would be able to clear passport control and customs after our arrival. Passengers were elated that they could disembark a day early and head home, or just walk around the city and take in the sights.

Dressed warmly, we walked off the ship to the receiving hall to be greeted by Customs and Border Control asking for our passport. We quickly passed through the checkpoint and headed to the exit. Another agent appeared and asked if we had anything to declare. I simply replied, “not today”. He smiled and we walked out into the city. Our plan was just to wander the streets and enjoy the experience of New York at Christmas.

New York is always a busy place, but the first weekend in December is exceptionally busy. Christmas is in full force and the streets are very crowded. The tree in Rockefeller Center was glowing in colored lights and store windows were decorated for the season. The windows of Sax department store had been created from drawings submitted by children and were exceptional!




Hunger had set in and a late lunch was in order. We found a small Italian restaurant and decided to sit outside next to outdoor heaters. We enjoyed a wonderful meal while being serenaded by a Christmas band from across the street.




Following lunch, we were walking the streets again when we found an Irish Pub. Andy had suffered long enough with limited to no access to dark beer and everyone’s feet were getting cold so we decided this would be a good place. The pub would be our hangout until it was time to go to church. The pub was packed and we chatted with a really interesting group from California. They had flown to New York on the red eye flight arriving this morning and were flying back to Los Angeles late tonight. He needed one more flight to upgrade his status in a frequent flyer program. There are always interesting folks in a pub…

Five-Thirty Mass at St Patrick’s was extremely crowded. Tourists and the faithful crowded into the church to hear the word, admire the beauty of the edifice, or maybe just to get warm. In our case, I think it was all three.

After Mass, we headed back to the ship. Along the way we meet up with Richard and Sally for a small plate Italian dinner. The gang ended our NYC adventure and toasted our successful crossing, realizing in the morning that we would disembark and head for our homes in Virginia.

Sunday Morning

Norwegian Cruise line got us off the ship as efficiently as they had gotten us on the ship two weeks ago. We entered the receiving hall as we had the day before, but passport control and customs were no longer there. I felt bad because today I had things to declare, but no one was there to ask 😉.




The whole process went so quickly that we had to wait an hour for our ride home. We went through a limo service and got a shuttle van to take us home.




It was a little more expensive than flying or taking the train, but it sure made the return home quick and easy. We loaded the van and all settled in. Hardly a word was spoken in our four-and half-hour journey to the Old Dominion. By three o’clock we were back in Virginia and our Epic adventure had come to an end. Another Bucket List item checked off.

The only questions now… Where to next? Will the germ keep us home?









Friday, December 3, 2021

5 Days at Sea

Here was our view for the 5 days during daylight hours. The night pictures I took just look black.



Short blog today 😊

If you are blog reader this is where you may want to punch out.  What follows is more of trip report to help those who may cruise on NCL in the future.  However, if you hang around I promise lots of pictures.   

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Since we did not leave the ship for those 5 days (thank goodness), we thought it would be a good time to take a tour of the ship and see some things the Epic had to offer. It is also a way to provide comments on the ship, the crew, the cruise, and services offered.

Today, when one returns from a restaurant, auto repair shop, or from a trip, an email (often more) will be sent by the service provider. They always want you to complete a short survey and rate your experience 1 to 5, with little to no area for comments. To me, it is not an accurate way for the service provider to gain knowledge on what is working and what needs improvement. I know when we gather with friends after a trip they will ask, “what did you think about the trip”? Certainly, the response will not be, “ahhhh it was a 4,” and then leave them hanging with no comment or story to support the number. I disdain metrics for the sake of metrics! The following is our attempt to capture our experiences on Epic and give the readers a taste that may await them if they choose her for a trip.

Safety:

Where else would one start in these days and times. Pre-trip, Norwegian was very clear on their COVID policy, vaccination requirement, and what testing would be required to enter Italy and board the Epic in Rome. My nose still hurts when I think about it. Once onboard, masks were required when in public spaces. They could be removed when one was eating or drinking. Some took great offense to that policy, but we just thought it made sense and followed the guidelines. NCL said, the mask requirement was mandated by EU policy. However, when we left the EU, masks were still required. There was a slight munity onboard when we cleared the EU and a people stopped wearing masks, but a crew member would politely remind them of the policy or hand them a mask. All in all wearing a mask was not a big deal and pretty much how we have been living for the last two years.

Whenever you left or returned to the ship, a facial recognition machine logged your status and took your temperature. The process was quick and painless.

I also should inject here how clean the ship was for the entire trip. Everything was being wiped down constantly, hand sanitizer stations were abundant, and the crew always (with a smile) reminded you to “Washy Washy” before entering any restaurant or venue.

We also had to get a PCR test on our last day at sea. One of the main dining rooms was set up as the test center and a very efficient nose swabbing event was held. Later that night we received the results of the test.




As you can see in the picture, most of the people were wearing their masks correctly, a few left their nose exposed, and of course there were a couple passengers who thought their right to infect other people was being violated by the NCL policy. Luckily, we saw no confrontations over the mask policy and when challenged all the non-maskers would comply to rules.

It is our understanding that there were approximately 1900 guests and 1600 crew onboard. We departed Rome COVID free. 15 days later when we arrived in NY, the status of passengers and crew had not changed. We have to give NCL and the attentive crew of the Epic a big thumbs up on making our passage a safe one.

Dining & Specialty Dining:

The Epic has eight dining options that are included as part of your passage. There are six additional options that have a small upcharge associated with the meal. Specialty dining as it called offered a wide array of culinary options. When we booked our trip, one of the add on benefits was five free specialty dinners. On our trip we did not pay any upcharges for dinner, and we did enjoy the specialty restaurants. We also benefited from the small number of passengers onboard. The ship was only booked around forty-five percent, so there was little to no waiting experienced at the included dining options and reservations to the specialty restaurants were available almost every night.

The two main restaurants onboard are The Manhattan Room and Taste. Both were included and served out of the same kitchen. They had the same menu every night, but the specials of the day always changed. There are seven or eight staples offered and four or five daily specials. Although the menus are the same, the vibe is totally different.

Taste, located midships, has a less formal atmosphere and more of a family restaurant feel. It does offer seating that provides a sea view, but it is limited. In the center of the restaurant there is an open area that is exposed to the decks above. Hanging from the ceiling is a twenty-one-foot chandelier that spans the three decks above. We never sat under the chandelier and even got to enjoy a sea view for breakfast one morning.

The Manhattan Room is in the aft of the ship and has a more sophisticated feel. They offer music and some nights dancing while you enjoy your dinner. Once again, there are some sea view seats, but we were never lucky enough to get one of those tables.




On our cruise the Manhattan Room was not open for breakfast, but Taste served a wonderful morning meal with an Ă  la carte menu.

The food was very good in both main restaurants and we never had a bad meal. There were options to meet everyone’s dietary preferences. From the carnivores to the vegans and everybody in between, there was something for you. The service was great! Once again, the NCL crew were efficient and by all observations appeared to be enjoying their jobs. Oh yeah, there were some pretty awesome desserts offered in both restaurants.

The Garden Café was on the deck 15 and had amazing views while you ate. We ate breakfast in the café many mornings as we pulled into port. The breakfast was good and filling and the port of the day could be seen out of the glass walls that surround the restaurant.




The cafĂ© was a buffet restaurant, but of course in these days and times you could not touch for your food. Everything was served to you by a gloved and masked member of the crew. While some love the croissants and sweet offerings, Tom will always go for grits, chicken babies, pig parts of some kind, and of course an English muffin. While underway we did grab lunch at the cafĂ© a couple times because of its close proximity to the outdoor deck poolside. The Garden CafĂ© also did several theme dinners, one of which was a Puerto Rican dinner.  That was the only dinner we ate in the cafĂ©.  

We also spent a lot of time at the cafĂ© playing cards while underway. The views were great and the wind did not blow the cards away. Once again, the staff here far exceed all expectations. Friendly and welcoming, they were always willing to solve an issue or get something you forgot. The “Washy Washy” girl mentioned above worked the entrance of the cafĂ© and her smile greeted you every time you entered. The cafĂ© was a solid place to eat and a great place to chill in off hours.

We ate in five of the six specialty dining restaurants while on the cruise. Reservations are required and the sooner you make them the better time slots will be available. Before we departed our group decided to do three dinners together, a boys’ night / girls’ night, and a date night with your spouse only. I think it worked out well.

The two restaurants that get the most press are Cagney’s Steak House and the French Bistro called Le Bistro. We all ate as a group at both of them and some chose to return for their date night to the two flagship restaurants.



The food was very good and the ambiance impeccable. Granted, because of our package, we did not have to pay the upcharge. While eating you did get the vibe that you were in a bistro in New York or Steak House in Chicago. The only one knock I would give both restaurants was the service did not take a step up. Attentive yes, but was lacking in what I would have expected at an upscale restaurant.

For boys’ night out, as expected, we chose the Brazilian Churrascaria, Moderno. The meat comes at you fast and furious! All cooked to your liking, but never ending. The salad bar was good, but not at the same level I had experienced on land at other Brazilian restaurants. The service was excellent, maybe too excellent. We never could figure out how to slow them down. If you waved off the sirloin the next thing you a know someone is offering you fillet. I think the sides were mashed potatoes and mushrooms, but I could be wrong. Moderno is definitely for the carnivores of the world, and I am one.

We decided on the Italian restaurant for our date night. Located on Deck 14 on the bow of the ship, it serves a big scoop of ambiance as soon as you walk in.






The restaurant, La Cucina, is a little difficult to find. One has to go to Deck 15 and walk to the very front of the Garden CafĂ© and there they will find a flight of steps down to the restaurant. I had a modern take of Osso Bucco that was wonderful. Janet went with a Scaloppine Di Vitello Alla Marsala that she truly enjoyed. A bottle of Barbera d'Alba was our wine for the evening.  It paired well the meal. Both of us cleaned our plates for both the primi and secondi course. Dessert was in order! When in an Italian restaurant go Italian. La Cucina’s Tiramisu was well worth the calories. The wait staff was very good and the wine steward was on top of his game. All in all, it was my favorite meal of the trip. Everything was just wonderful and it made date night even more special. The ladies had gone there on girls’ night and I think they felt they were rushed by the wait staff, but that was not the case on date. Two thumbs up for La Cucina!

As a group on our last night at sea we experienced Teppanyaki, a Japanese Hibachi restaurant. In full disclosure, I am not a big fan of most Asian cuisine and I do not share food well. My bad, but that is me.




Gathered around a knife wheeling chef, the clink, clanks, and constant chatter while our dishes were prepared was very entertaining. We had lots of laughs around the table as we watched some impressive utensil usage. I went the safe route for me and ordered a Japanese fillet which was very good. Janet did not really enjoy her seafood creation, which I found surprising because on the menu it looked like it had her name all over it. Our night at Teppanyaki was not my favorite on meal on the ship, but it was a lot of fun.

In summary, we did not have a bad meal while underway. Here again, I did not feel that we had a meal that was over the top either. The food was very good to excellent and we really enjoyed all the choices offered, but no meal left long lasting memories.

If I had one real knock it would be with the wine list. The same wines were available all over the ship. Meaning the ones available in the restaurants were the same as the pool deck. Once again in fairness, wine is one of my passions and my comments are from someone who love wines. The wines that came with the drink package were solid, but I wish they would have featured more of the wines of Italy, France, and Spain, representing the countries we visited on our journey. The wine list should be tailored better to match the foods in the specialty restaurants. For example, in Le Bistro, a French restaurant, there should be more than a few French wines that would pair with the foods offered for the evening. There is always room for improvement, and on the Epic the wine list and the knowledge of the people serving the wine could be enhanced greatly.

Beverages, Bars, and the Drink Package:

The drink package worked well for us. Those few times we exceeded the $15 maximum of the regular drink package did not warrant us to upgrade to the premium package offered pre-cruise. We found the waiters and bartenders were much more knowledgeable of the sprits they offered than the wine stewards. A simple Gin and Tonic on the pool deck or a Manhattan at Maltings Whiskey Bar were made well. I am not a big fan of the margarita or piña colada slushy machines, but I am sure on a Caribbean cruise it would be the only way the bar could keep up.




Of course, as the week went on, we all found our favorite bartender and servers at one of the many bars. Not including restaurants, there are at least eighteen locations where you can order a drink.




No, we did not hit all the options available. A few that we tended to gravitate to were the Maltings Whiskey Bar for those who leaned toward brown spirts...




and those of us who prefer clear sprits, the Martini Bar was next door.




Both bars provided excellent service and quality libations and had a great staff supporting the bartenders. One young lady, Eyza (pretty sure on spelling), was extremely special and throughout our journey was our shining star.




O'Sheehan's Neighborhood Bar & Grill was the Irish Pub onboard the Epic.  It offered another option for a good breakfast in the morning. The pub was also one of the free dining options. It was a great place to play cards while underway. Located low and midships, when the seas got choppy the movement was almost undetectable in the pub. The one thing that we found strange about life aboard the Epic was there were no dark beer choices. How can you have an Irish Pub and not serve dark beer? One could get a PBR or the Polish Beer Perla, but no Irish Stouts. There were no dark beer options on the Epic, period. To me, that just does not seem right!

The one lounge we only visited once was the Skyy Vodka Ice Bar. For a small upcharge, you got to enjoy a cocktail at a chilly 17°F. They limit your stay to 30 minutes, but we held on for 35. Three drinks are on the menu to choose from, of which the upcharge covered two of them. The bar, your glass, and everything else in the room is ice. You and the liquids you are consuming are very cold, but not solid ice. We made it passed the set time limit in the ice bar before we were asked to leave. The bartender, who had to be frozen stiff after his shift, was friendly and funny. We truly had fun with this chilling experience.




Entertainment:

This is one area where all expectations were exceeded. Whether on the big stage, in the comedy club, or in one of the many bars, the performers were excellent. Unfortunately, the headline show, Priscilla Queen of the Desert was canceled for our trip. It was our understanding that the cancellation was due to the actors in disagreement with the NCL COVID policies. 

Burn the Floor was full of energy and the dancing was remarkable. How the dancers could do what they did on a moving service still amazes me. I wish we had a chance to watch the show a second time while onboard, but our nights were filled with entertainment options.  Shows were probably one of the most enjoyable things about cruising. To meet at a lounge for a pre-dinner cocktail, then have a wonderful dinner with friends, and end the evening with a quality show is an evening that is hard to beat.

We saw four different comedians during the crossing and enjoyed them all. Do not remember their names, but we certainly laughed during their shows. Another show that was a real crowd pleaser was the Howl at the Moon dueling pianos. Two grand pianos took center stage and two singers took request from the crowd. The performers out did themselves by making the songs their own and involving the audience as part of the show. I do not think anybody stumped them with their request.

I have already mentioned earlier in the blog how wonderful the Santana Tribute band's was enjoyed. The Beatle cover band in The Cavern Club was always a great place for  late-night dancing.




Both were great! However, the music did not stop there. Most evenings the lounges also had a solo performer providing entertainment. These events were a great place to meet some of your fellow passengers while enjoying some good music.




On our crossing we were blessed with three great days at sea! The ocean was calm and the sun was out strong. Who would have thought that in the middle of the ocean in December one would be wearing shorts, bathing suits, and partying outside? The bandstand on the pool deck was alive with entertainers and the deck with dancers. Lots of reggae and classic rock kept us all going back most afternoons when the weathered allowed. The big plus was there was a great bar and ice cream machine close by.  Who could ask for?  Definitely a good time had by all.




Simply put, the entertainment onboard was top notch all the way around. From a night in the theater or dancing on deck, the Epic and their entertainers were great!

Shopping and the Casino:

Yes, the ship had both. We did not take advantage of either one. We are not gamblers and neither of us needed a new Rolex. We did peruse the shops and even got a few small Christmas items, but did not invest in any of the luxury items offered at one of the many shops.




The casino never appeared very busy. The dealers, box men, craps stickmen, and croupiers were all standing by for business, but we saw very little action. Getting on the elevator one day, I heard a man say, “the casino is not very busy”, and it made me pause to think. I wonder if it was because most of the folks on this trip were on a fixed income? Not sure, but whatever the reason, a seat at the table, a roll of the dice, or a spin of the wheel was always available while underway.




The one arm bandits had a little more activity. With their lights blinking and sounds jingling they warmed the passageway as one walked down slot machine alley.

Activities Onboard:

In the beginning of the cruise, we were all about excursions and getting off the boat to experience the city we were visiting that day. At sea was a different story, time was available to take in some of the extracurricular activities. There seemed be a rolling Bridge game every day. It started in the morning and would go all day. None of us being Bridge players, we as group would gather for a game of Play Nine or a Trivia Game.



The ship does have a lovely card room next to the library which we did use once, but the Irish Pub or Garden Café were a much better spot for us.

We did attend one of the lectures on Pablo Picasso. It was presented by the person who managed the art collection and auction onboard. She was an excellent presenter and covered a portion of Picasso’s life and art that we knew little about.




We should have made more time for these presentations that were given at different venues while underway.

In the morning, Karen and Janet participated in some dance / exercise classes. The classes were given by some of the entertainers onboard, and I think both really enjoyed beginning their day learning a new dance. The workouts were held on the dance floor in the Cavern Club or Manhattan Room.

The kitchen staff also presented a fruit and vegetable carving demonstration. It was on the pool deck outside. Unfortunately, it had just rained and the temperature was just starting to drop and the wind grew stronger as we continued to head northeast on our crossing. The elements did not seem to impact the chef as he carved edible masterpieces, but I was wishing I had a sweatshirt. It was fascinating to watch and the expertise shown with some very sharp instruments produced some amazing objects.




The only thing that both of us really wanted to do was to take a guided tour behind the scenes of the ship; especially, the kitchen and food preparation for so many people. Even better, would have been a hands-on cooking class and then allowing the participants to serve the staff their culinary creations. I guess if one books on a smaller cruise ship, they may be able to see and experience things activities like that on their journey.  Also may not have been available because of "the germ".

Coolest Place on the Ship:

Ok, those who know me, know I have a warped sense of humor and look at life sometimes in a twisted way. By far the coolest place on the NCL Epic is the head on Deck 15. Offering stunning view of the seas or the port you are visiting; I have never experienced a place like this to take care of my natural needs! The Men’s Room is Starboard and Ladies Room is Port. I am guessing the Ladies Room offers the same views just from a different perspective. Just So Cool!




Big Shout Outs:

To the crew of the Epic for making this bucket list crossing so much fun! This group of young men in the picture were some of the ship’s photographers. Everywhere you went there was someone willing to take a picture. It got to be almost be a joke how many photographers there were. One night walking by the photo booth setup, I could not resist turning the lens on them. This is just an example of the smiles, enthusiasm, and the willingness of the crew to please. BTW – we never got one picture taken by the roaming picture snappers. Two Thumbs Up for Crew of the Epic.




To Chirpbird, StefkaP, and the rest of the Cruise Critic crowd that supplied so much helpful information before our departure. The Cruise Critic web page is setup so one can communicate and pass on information to those who will be joining you on your specific adventure. During this time of COVID, there were more than one hoop that needed to be jumped through with paperwork, obtaining QR codes, and constantly changing travel restrictions. It was really helpful to be able to communicate with people who had cruised a lot, had already conquered the task at hand, or in some cases were already on the ship. We did learn a new acronym on the Cruise Critic webpage, BTB. BTB are those people who are doing Back-To-Back cruises. The fun goes on before or after the trip, maybe both. Sail the Med for ten days and then transit across the Atlantic home. Oh wait… Let’s do the Caribbean leg before we get off. Those are the BTBs of the world. Once again, Chirpbird and the gang – Thanks!




On our last day at sea, the weather turned cold and the seas became rough. The ship turned north; I assume to avoid weather. We went almost all the way to Nova Scotia, before turning back south for the run to New York. 




Originally, we were scheduled to arrive on 4 December, but one port in the Azores was dropped and we were now scheduled to arrive in the Big Apple on 3 December at 5 a.m. Because of the ship’s course change our arrival was delayed and now planned 6 hours later for 11 a.m.  The later arrival will allow us to view the Statue of Liberty in all of her glory in the daylight. So excited!

The five days at sea have flew by and we were blessed with great weather most of the way. A bucket list item has been checked off and how better to do it than with friends. Tomorrow New York!

Monday, November 29, 2021

Magical Madeira

After travelling 700 miles from CĂĄdiz to Funchal, Madeira, we arrived as the sun was peeking above the sea. Today’s weather looked ominous as we prepared to dock, but the sea had truly calmed.




Janet and I have never visited this island so we were really excited to explore and discover this rock in the ocean. Funchal, to our surprise, is a densely populated city clinging to the side of hills overlooking the sea.




Standing on the balcony as we docked, we quickly realized that we would be experiencing a wicked ride on our bus excursion today.




Hairpin turns, steep inclines, and long drop offs would definitely be on the agenda for our excursion. Tom had already decided before exiting the ship to be polite and offer Janet the window seat. We chose for the day’s adventure “Scenic Villages and Costal Views”. It was our hope to escape the large city of Funchal and enjoy the countryside. 

I am not sure if we were getting used to the disembarkation process or the NCL crew was getting better at getting us off the ship, but it seemed less painful than any day before. We headed to our bus where our driver greeted us with a smile and handed us wipes to clean our hands. With all passengers onboard, a confirming head count, and tickets collected, we began the exploration of this beautiful island located 350 miles off the coast of Morocco.

Camara de Lobos would be our first stop. It is a small fishing village nestled in a cove and a favorite place for artists to capture its beauty. The multi-color boats, sharp rock formations, and white houses with the red roofs all lend themselves to be captured on some kind of media. Whether it be canvas, film, or digital, there is no doubt that the beauty of this seaside village has been documented by many. Not sure it has ever been accurately captured, here is our attempt to highlight the beauty.









Tom saw someone he thought he recognized sitting in front of a small hotel painting the harbor. He chatted with the man because he will talk to anybody before he realized the man was stone deaf. Seriously, the town of Camara de Lobos was one of Sir Winston Churchill's favorite places to unwind and do something he loved - to paint.




Over the years in our travels to Europe, especially Italy and Spain, we have noticed something about Sundays. The beautiful churches fill up with women and children, while the men head to the town square to hang out with friends. Madeira is no different. The early morning Mass in the beautiful church on the hill had just ended.  Ladies were leading the children home, while down the hill in the harbor, the men crowded around tables playing cards and smoking.



The next stop of the day would offer some amazing views of the countryside. First, we must climb to get there. It appeared almost every piece of useable land, and a lot of the land that was un-useable, was supporting some type of agriculture function. The views from the bus were spectacular, and Tom was very pleased he was a gentleman and allowed Janet to enjoy the window views. We wound around vineyards, banana orchids, flowers of every color, and rock walls protecting home gardens as we continued to climb. The island’s beauty cannot be captured by a camera lens, or portable telephone with a camera.




When we finally reached a flat section of road, the bus stopped and then started backing up cutting his wheels like we going over the cliff. This was very UNGOOD!  We quickly realized that we had reached our next stop and were about to try a potion that Madeiran fisherman like to drink to fortify the soul. It is a concoction made from local rum (rhum) with honey, lemon and other citrus flavors known as Poncha. A free sample table was set up as a gentleman poured fast furious to our group. Folks were downing them as quick as he could fill the glasses. I think most drank because it was free, some maybe because they liked it, and in Tom’s case it was because the time had come to get back on the bus and climb higher on the narrow roads.

It was at this roadside pitstop where one of the funniest things we have ever experienced occurred. An older woman than us (+70) took a sip of the Poncha licked her lips, and looking straight at Janet said, “I have never had a sip of alcohol in my life” and after a short pause “I wonder why I waited so long”. She requested us to take a picture of her and the empty glass of Poncha so she could share with her children. She reciprocated by taking a shot of us. Standing on that overlook 1000 feet above the sea, I could not help to wonder what inspired her to just give it go and down this citrus potion. Getting back on the bus, we noticed she was carrying a bag with a small bottle of Poncha. The driver appropriately put the bus in forward and we began to climb once again.




Reaching the top of our journey, we arrived at Cabo Girao. This sea cliff happens to be the highest in Europe and we were told that it was the second highest in the world. Providing infinite views of the sea from 1900 feet, we walked to the edge. Guess what! They have one of those glass platforms!  If one is foolish enough, they can challenge their fear of heights.

For those that have followed our blogs in the past, you may remember that Tom made it across the one-mile-high bridge at Grandfather Mountain earlier in the year. Yes, there were a few small children he stepped on or pushed aside as they wanted to jump and play games on the bridge, but he made it. The sheerness of this cliff made it a whole new challenge. He was not as confident about standing on a piece of glass with 60 people he did not know. Sticking his camera over the wall revealed the view below.




Janet, on the other hand, marched out on the viewing platform like she was going to take a walk on the beach… well I guess she was, but the beach was 1900 feet below. After some serious soul searching and a break when very few people were on the platform, Tom did it! Ripping off his mask to insure he had enough oxygen, he smiled and then told Janet, “Take the damn picture… please” and then got off quickly. Tom did not make it to viewing rail, but was extremely pleased with himself.



If you look at the picture carefully, notice Tom kept one foot on the support beam. If he heard a crack, he wanted to make sure something was solid under him, like he would be of sound mind to actually straddle the beam and crawl back to terra firma. Janet comfortably moved all around the platform. In fact, she may have been trying to capture a picture of the New York Skyline as she leaned over the edge. The view truly was endless and Janet could have stood there for another hour, but Tom was ready to descend down to sea level.




Our last stop of the day was another seaside town. The town of Ribeira Brava is much larger than the fishing village of Camara de Lobos. The bus parked at the mouth of the river that runs through the middle of the town and empties into the ocean.




Ribeira Brava translates as “Wild River”. Today the waterway was peaceful, and being Sunday so was the town. The streets were quiet with a few shops open. A nativity scene with life size figures was being setup in the park at the end of the river. Santa was spotted checking in on the progress as Mary and Joseph stood in waiting for the big day less than a month away.




We walked around poking our heads in different shops. Of course, it did not take long for Tom to gravitate towards the wine section of the market.




We slowly strolled back towards the rendezvous point for the bus. The streets were narrow and fairly quiet. Signs of Christmas were everywhere.




As we passed the church, we noticed that Mass was ongoing. Standing in the back quietly, we listened and watched the priest while mentally translating the words from Portuguese to English. Not knowing a word of Portuguese did not encumber us in this translation. The Mass is a Mass no matter the language it is celebrated in.




Boarding the bus and heading out of town, this scene of two men fishing caught both of our eyes. Snapping almost identical pictures, we just could not resist adding a caption to the photograph for this amazing Sunday in Madeira.




The bus ride back to Funchal flew by as the guide told us more about the traditions, history, and foods of these islands. More than once she talked of the delicacy of the fish that is almost only found in the deep waters surrounding Madeira. This black fish is named the scabbard fish and lives in depths greater than 400 feet. Normally, these fish are caught between 800 and 1000 feet. The way she described the scabbard was that if you saw the fish you would not want to eat it, but the meat of the fish is very white and sweet. We now had two things to do – 1) Find one for lunch, 2) Google to see what they look like.

The driver of our excursion was nice enough to let us off in downtown Funchal instead of returning to the ship. The city was much more alive than the seaside villages, but was still quiet with very few shops open. We stopped in a few and found to people extremely friendly, and not pushy. There were many souvenirs of the island available, but the ones we really liked were made of cork. In fact, a few of those items made it back to the ship for Christmas presents. It was pushing two o’clock and our stomachs were beginning to growl. We were in search of a restaurant when by chance, we bumped into the gang, who had just sat down for lunch at an outdoor restaurant. We joined in and were extremely pleased to see on the daily menu board, Scabbard Fish Filet Sandwich “bolo do caco”.  We were glad to be able to follow the tour guide’s instructions “try it before you see what it looks like”. The fish came and as she had advertised the meat was flakey white and extremely sweet. Accompanied by a lovely rosĂ©, we had a wonderful lunch. There was even music from a street player that made the moment even more special. 


However, the highlight of the lunch was when Andy found a dark beer on the menu. For some reason unbeknownst to anyone we asked, there was no dark beer on the ship. Not even in the Irish Pub onboard. I am not sure it was the best dark beer he ever had, but it hit the spot that day. Sally and Richard enjoyed some Madeira, which is the wine that the island is known for. Madeira, the wine, played a major role in the history of the United States. It was the libation of choice of our founding fathers when they took part in honorable treason and drafted the Declaration of Independence. BTW – for history buffs, the book “Honorable Treason” is a very interesting read. Of course, with a glass of Madeira close by.





We continued to wander the streets and enjoy the city before heading back to the ship. Walking along the sea wall, we could see the Epic and it appeared only a short distance away, if you could walk on water.




We would have to walk parallel with the ship for quite a distance before turning back to the ship at the entrance to dock. Looking back on where we started from provided us a great view of the city.




One of the worst things about a cruise is that there never seems to be enough time on land to truly enjoy a place. On the other hand, it is a great way to discover new places and put them on a list to return. Madeira is one of those places we would like to return and explore.

As we got closer to the Epic, we could hear all sorts of music and something happening at the entrance of the ship. Tom’s knee was hurting and all he wanted to do is get on the ship, but we had to smile to see the crew dancing and singing to greet us as we had just finished the Boston Marathon. They were handing out wet wash clothes and water, both of which were gladly accepted.




Back on board we began getting ready for the night’s activities when the ship began to move. We both went out on the balcony to say good bye to Madeira an island that had provided us with a wonderful day. Watching the island go by we suddenly realized that it would be the last land we would see for 5 days. Our transatlantic adventure was truly going to begin.




Oh yeah, the scabbard fish! The guide was right! The fish is extremely ugly and it is mean looking! Not sure we would have eaten it if we saw it first.